La Mia Pizza →

Photo: c. foodblogchef 2021 Veggie Pizza

Having grown up in an Italian immigrant community in Providence, Rhode Island, my dad always made pizza at home. I guess it follows that I have always loved making my own pizza. I love pizza! In fact, I never met a pizza I didn’t like (except the one from one of the big pizza chain stores that I threw away in disgust). But, there’s pizza and then there’s Pizza! Over the past year, I took a deep dive into pizzaiolo culture in search of the perfect pizza. Neapolitan, Sicilian, Roman pizza al taglio, New York style, Detroit style, Chicago deep dish, New Haven Apizza by Frank Pepe, etc., if made well, I love them all, but my preference is something between thin Neapolitan, thick Sicilian, and crunchy Roman pizza al taglio. I want pizza with lots of air pockets in the outer edge of the crust (the cornicione) and I want a thicker bottom crust than Neapolitan style, but not as thick as Sicilian pizza; light and crunchy, not soggy and floppy. I became semi-obsessed (my wife would say obsessed!) I went down the pizzaiolo rabbit hole and learned about different kinds of flour, gluten formation, Biga, Poolish, hydration, pre-fermentation, gluten formation, cold fermentation, room temperature proofing, baking steel, pizza stone, cast iron pan-pizza...etc. Whew! Pizzaioli say making pizza is an art, but who knew that making the perfect pizza crust could be more complicated than making Coquilles St. Jacques. Geeese! Here’s what I came up with after many attempts...there are two fundamental steps to making the perfect pizza: making a good dough and cooking the pizza at the right temperature to achieve the light airy crunchy crust. The dough recipe below is dependable and works well to produce a light crunchy crust filled with air pockets. The second step of baking the pizza may take a bit of experimentation to adapt to the stove or grill you have available to bake with. If you don’t have a pizza oven, a hot 500 F. oven or gas grill and a pizza stone or pizza steel are essential. I found that using my gas grill works well (it heats up quickly) and causes less wear and tear on my kitchen oven. If you want to become a proficient home-pizzaiolo, follow the steps below and don’t give up if your first attempt doesn’t give you the results you want. Try again until you have your pizzaiolo technique perfected. You will smile to yourself every time you pass by a pizza restaurant. Divertiti! Mangia e buon appetito!

Demystified Roman Style Pizza with No-Knead Pizza Dough

Special equipment:
digital cooking scale (or you can convert grams to cups and tablespoons, but it won’t be as accurate)
gas grill or kitchen oven that can reach 500F.
pizza stone, pizza steel, or large cast-iron pan
pizza peel
Motivation to make a great homemade pizza!

Make the dough…
Ingredients:

• 330 grams #00 King Arthur or Caputo flour (sifted)

• 5 grams instant yeast (1 1/8 teaspoon)

• 5 grams sugar (1 teaspoon)

• 7 grams of salt (1 teaspoon fine salt)

• 241 grams (275 ml.) of warm water (about 110-115 F.)

• 2 tablespoons of olive oil

Method:

1. Sift all the dry ingredients except the salt into a large bowl and make a hollow in the center.

2. Mix the warm water and olive oil and add slowly into the hollow center; mixing with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, rotating the bowl, scraping down the sides until a shaggy dough forms.

3. Cover and let the dough rest for 10 minutes before stirring in the salt.

4. Cover the container and rest for 1 hour.

5. Wet or oil your hands and leaving the dough in the container, stretch and fold the dough lengthwise in half four times, rotating 90 degrees between each fold; cover and rest for 5 minutes. Repeat this 3 more times resting the dough 5 minutes between each sequence of 4 folds. You want a smooth dough to form.

6. Cover and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

7. Place the dough in a lightly oiled container covered in the fridge or cool place for at least 24 hours up to 40 hours. (This “cold ferment” adds flavor and elasticity to the dough. After 24 hours the dough will have doubled in size and be full of bubbles created by the yeast.)

8. Dump the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and stretch and fold in thirds like folding a letter (2 times rotating 90 degrees); then pinch the seams and form a ball.

9. Return the ball to an oiled container covered for 3 hours at room temperature.

10. Dump the dough onto a lightly floured surface, flatten gently with your hand, and starting in the middle, using your fingertips, finger-poke-stretch the dough into a round form leaving a thicker bubbly outer rim about 1 inch wide. Note: stretch the dough so it is about a ¼ inch thick in the middle main body of the pizza round leaving a 1” wide bubbly thicker outer ring of dough for the outer crust (cornicione).

Make the pizza:

1. Gently lift your stretched round of dough onto a sheet of parchment paper on a pizza peel. Trim the excess paper from around the dough leaving about a 1-inch wide rim of paper beyond the edge of the dough. Cover the dough loosely with plastic wrap and allow to rest for about 30 minutes while you pre-heat the grill and gather your toppings.

2. If you don’t have a special pizza oven, if your kitchen oven can reach 500 F., pre-heat the pizza stone or pizza steel on the bottom rack of the oven. Otherwise, preheat a gas grill covered for about 30 minutes to 500 F. with the pizza stone on the rack. Heat the grill with the end burners on medium and the pizza stone placed in the middle.

3. After 30 minutes, while the grill is still preheating, brush the dough lightly with olive oil (especially the outer edge), add light sauce and toppings of your choice to the stretched dough.

4. Using a pizza peel, transfer the pizza on the parchment to your hot pizza stone. Close the grill and increase the middle burner to low.

5. After 5 minutes, the thicker outer ring of the dough should have puffed up and started to turn light brown; pull the parchment out from under the dough and continue to bake until the cheese is melted and just starting to brown and the bottom crust is golden brown. (check after 10 minutes more.)

6. Use the pizza peel to remove the pizza from the oven and place it on a metal cookie rack to cool a bit. Placing it on the rack helps to maintain the wonderful crunchy bottom crust you worked so hard to achieve.

For the science behind making pizza dough go to Cooks Illustrated: https://www.cooksillustrated.com/articles/1281-introducing-pizza-al-taglio

For a video tutorial see: Mile Zero Kitchen “Authentic Roman Pizza”
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OY3f-A0t2_M

Pate Brisée Pie Crust →

Buttery, light, and flaky, this is my favorite pie crust for fruit pies or savory meat pies. For novices to making pie crust, it might take a couple of tries before you perfect your method, but the result is more than worth it! I highly recommend this video tutorial as a place to begin your journey to perfecting your own pie crust: https://www.joyofbaking.com/PieCrust.html

Pate Brisée Pie Crust
2- 9 inch crusts

Ingredients:

• 2 ½ cups (320 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour

• 1 tablespoon granulated sugar

• 1 teaspoon fine sea salt (if using salted butter reduce salt to ½ tsp.)

• less than ½ cup (120 milliliters) ice water + 2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar

• 1 cup (225 grams) very cold unsalted butter (2 sticks); cut into ½ inch cubes and freeze for a few minutes

Preparation:

1. In a medium bowl or food processor, whisk together the flour, sugar, and salt; set aside.

2. In a measuring cup or a small bowl, combine the cold water and vinegar; set aside.

3. If using a food processor, evenly distribute the cubes of chilled butter over the flour and pulse 15-20 times to incorporate the butter with the flour. If not using a food processor, gently toss the chilled butter in the flour mixture until coated, then use a pastry blender to cut the butter into the flour. (You should have pieces of butter that range from sandy patches to pea-size chunks, with some larger bits as well.)

4. Drizzle in about a quarter cup of the ice water mixture and stir lightly with a fork, or pulse in the food processor until the flour is evenly moistened and the dough starts to come together. If the dough seems dry, add a little more ice water, 1 to 2 tablespoons at a time. The dough will still look a bit shaggy at this point. If you grab a small piece of dough and press it slightly with your hand, it should mostly hold together. (Note: the Joy of Baking video is very helpful here.)

5. Dump the dough out onto an unfloured work surface and gather it together into a tight mound. Using the heel of your hand, smear the dough a little at a time, pushing it away from you and working your way down the mass of dough to create flat layers of flour and butter. Gather the dough back together with a bench scraper, layering the clumps of dough on top of one another.

6. Repeat the process once or twice more; the dough should still have some big pieces of butter visible. Do not overwork the dough or it will be tough.

7. Cut the dough in half. Shape each piece into a disk and flatten each to about a 5 inch round. Wrap the disks in plastic and put them in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour, or overnight, to rest.

8. Remove the dough from the fridge about 20 minutes before rolling out.

9. Using a rolling pin, roll out the dough to a scant 1/8 inch thickness, rotating the disk as you roll the dough to achieve a uniform thickness throughout.

10. The dough can be stored for 3 days in the refrigerator or up to 1 month in the freezer. If making the dough in advance to freeze: Roll out the dough on a piece of parchment paper, then carefully roll it up in the parchment. Write the date on the parchment and pop it into the freezer to firm up, about 30 minutes. Then wrap the crust securely in plastic wrap. Defrost the dough in the refrigerator overnight or thaw it on the kitchen counter for about 30 minutes before using.

*Note: If you are a novice pie crust maker, I highly recommend viewing the two videos below before you make your pie crust.

https://www.joyofbaking.com/PieCrust.html
https://www.bonappetit.com/test-kitchen/how-to/article/never-mess-up-pie-crust

Also for method see: https://www.thekitchn.com/how-to-make-perfectly-flaky-pie-crust-cooking-lessons-from-the-kitchn-191896
https://www.seriouseats.com/2015/03/science-of-pie-7-myths-that-need-to-go-away.html