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Photo: c. foodblogchef 2021

Photo: c. foodblogchef 2021

Lobster Bisque →

August 07, 2021 by FoodBlogChef in Soups and Stews

For most of us, cooking lobster is an expensive splurge for a special occasion, so it makes sense to maximize the use of as much of the spiny crustacean as possible. Given the current price of lobsters, it’s hard to believe that they were once considered “cockroaches of the sea” and used as fertilizer on gardens and a cheap source of protein for poor folks, prisoners, and slaves. The first mention of bisque as a shellfish soup dates back to the 17th century. Bisque was not initially a fancy soup but contained finely crushed shells of whatever seafood was used, leading food historians to suggest that it was a fisherman’s dish, designed to get the most flavor out of ingredients at hand. It wasn’t until the mid-1800’s that lobster became regarded as the culinary delicacy that it is today. So enjoy your lobster rolls, Lobster Thermador, Lobster Pie, Lobster Risotto, or Homard Parfumé à L'absinthe, but at $10.-$15. (or more) a pound for live lobster, don’t throw away the carcasses! You can maximize your investment and double your pleasure by making delicious lobster bisque. This has been my go-to recipe for lobster bisque for many years. If two rich meals of lobster in a row are too much for you, the stock from this recipe can be frozen for future use before adding the cream. Bon appétit!

Lobster Bisque
about 6- ½ cup servings

Ingredients:

• 2 1-pound live lobsters
• 2 tablespoons olive oil (or 1 tablespoon each of olive oil and butter)
• 1 onion, sliced
• 1 large celery stalk, sliced
• 1 small carrot, sliced
• ½ fennel bulb with fronds
• ½ cup brandy
• ½ cup dry Sherry
• 4 cups fish stock or bottled clam juice
• 1 garlic head, cut in half crosswise
• 1 tomato, sliced
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
• 2 bay leaves
• 8 whole black peppercorns
• ¼ cup tomato paste
• ½ cup heavy cream (you can substitute half-and-half cream but it won’t be as creamy)
• 2 teaspoons cornstarch
• 1 tablespoon water

Preparation:

1. Bring a large pot of water to boil. Add the lobsters headfirst and boil until cooked through, about 8 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the lobsters to a large bowl. Reserve 2 cups of cooking liquid. Cool the lobsters.

2. Working over a large bowl to catch juices, tear off the lobster tails and claws. Crack the tail and claw shells and remove the meat and set aside in the fridge for another meal or to add to the bisque. Coarsely chop the shells and bodies; transfer to a medium bowl. Reserve the juices from the lobster in a large bowl.

3. Heat olive oil in a heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Add the lobster shells and bodies and sauté until the shells begin to brown. Add the onion and the next 8 ingredients. Mix in the brandy and Sherry. Boil until almost all liquid has evaporated, about 4 minutes. Add the fish stock, and reserved 2 cups of lobster cooking liquid and lobster juices, fresh herbs, and peppercorns, and simmer for 1 hour.

4. Strain the soup through a sieve set over a large saucepan, pressing firmly on solids to extract the juices. Whisk the tomato paste into the soup. Simmer until the soup is reduced to 3 cups, about 15 minutes. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

5. Add cream to the soup and simmer for 5 minutes. Dissolve cornstarch in 1 tablespoon of water. Add to the soup and boil until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes.

6. Optional: mix the chopped lobster meat into the soup and stir to heat through. Ladle the soup into bowls and serve with good crusty bread for dipping.

Source: 1997- https://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/lobster-bisque-4092

print recipe
August 07, 2021 /FoodBlogChef
lobster meat, lobster shells, onion, garlic, thyme, tarragon, celery, brandy, Sherry, fish stock, clam juice, tomato paste, tomato, black peppercorns, heavy cream, cornstarch, bay leaves, fresh fennel bulb
Soups and Stews
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Photo c. foodblogchef 2020

Photo c. foodblogchef 2020

Wooing Fish Chowder →

October 10, 2020 by FoodBlogChef in Soups and Stews

I served Craig Claiborne’s version of this dish the first time I cooked for my future wife almost 40 years ago. Little did I know at that time that she would become my favorite sous chef and hostess for dinner parties at Chez Fairfield. The original recipe, “Fish Soup au Cognac”, comes from the New York Times International Cookbook by Craig Claiborne, but I have altered it over the years to make it my own and a bit more like a chowder than a soup. According to Claiborne, the original version makes a wonderful starter for a larger meal. My version incorporates the tastes into a meal in itself. Enjoy them both!

Wooing Fish Chowder

Serves 4-6
Ingredients:

  • 1 pound cod or other white, firm-fleshed fish cut into 2-3 inch chunks.

  • 3 tablespoons olive oil

  • 1 tablespoon minced garlic

  • 1 cup chopped onion (or finely sliced leeks, white and pale green parts only)

  • 1 cup chopped fennel bulb or celery (fennel cored, white part only; fronds reserved for garnish)

  • 2 teaspoons fresh thyme (¾ teaspoon dried)

  • 1 teaspoon crushed fennel seeds

  • ½ teaspoon saffron crumbled (optional)

  • a couple of dashes of Tabasco or your favorite hot sauce

  • 1-8 ounce bottle clam juice

  • 1 cup dry white wine

  • 1/3 cup canned crushed tomatoes or puree

  • 1 large white Russet potato cut into ½ inch chunks

  • 3 tablespoons Brandy or Cognac

  • 5 cups of ½ and ½ cream

  • ½ teaspoon salt; ¼ teaspoon black pepper (or more to taste)

  • 1-2 tablespoons Anisette, Pernod, or other anise-flavored liquor (optional but recommended)

  • fennel fronds for garnish

Preparation:

  1. In a dutch oven or other heavy bottom pot, heat the oil and saute the onion, garlic, fennel (or celery), fennel seeds, thyme, and saffron until the onion is wilted and the fennel has softened.

  2. Add the wine, crushed tomatoes, and clam juice and bring to a boil stirring constantly until the mixture reduces and begins to thicken; lower the heat and simmer for 5-10 minutes stirring occasionally.

  3. Add the potatoes, then add water to cover the potatoes, and boil until almost tender when pierced with a fork (about 10-15 minutes)

  4. Add the fish and lower the heat to medium-low and simmer for about 3-4 minutes

  5. Add the cream, salt and pepper, and Brandy and simmer on low for about 5 minutes until the soup is hot. (Do not boil or the cream will curdle.)

  6. Remove from heat, add Anisette, and adjust salt and pepper if necessary.

  7. Serve garnished with reserved fennel fronds and accompanied with good crusty bread for dipping.

Wine pairing: non-oaky Chardonnay, Chablis, White Burgundy, Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino, Albariño, Verdejo

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October 10, 2020 /FoodBlogChef
cod, fennel, fennel seeds, cream, onion, clam juice, potato, saffron, white wine, brandy, anisette, hot sauce, thyme
Soups and Stews
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