Sweet Sausage Sugo with White Wine and Fennel →

In Italian, “sugo” means juice. Sugo di Pomodoro (tomato sauce) is juicier than marinara sauce and lighter than a slow-cooked ragú. This recipe, adapted from Chef Andrew Carmellini, is an updated, refined version of a dish my grandmother used to make when I was a kid. Marinating the sausage in a mixture of white wine, grated garlic, black pepper, and red pepper flakes tenderizes the pork, adds depth, and balances the richness of the sauce. Quick and easy to prepare, this sugo is loaded with flavor your family will love. My grandmother would be smiling. Mangiare mi familia!

SWEET SAUSAGE SUGO WITH WHITE WINE AND FENNEL
Serves 4-6
Ingredients

• 4 garlic cloves, grated (about 1 tablespoon)

• 1 1/3 cups dry white wine, divided

• 1 pound sweet Italian sausage, casings removed

• 1 teaspoon ground fennel

• ½ teaspoon black pepper

• ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper

• ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped

• 1 small carrot, finely chopped

• 1 celery stalk, finely chopped

• 1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, undrained and crushed (San Marzano tomatoes recommended)

• 1 (14.5-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, undrained and crushed

• 1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

• 1 pound uncooked spaghetti (I prefer thin linguine or spaghetti rigati)

• ½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

• ¼ cup chopped fresh basil, plus small leaves for garnish

• ½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus more for garnish

Preparation

1. Stir together the grated garlic and 1/3 cup wine in a large bowl. Add sausage, fennel, black pepper, and crushed red pepper; stir well to combine. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 12 hours.
2. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium until shimmering. Increase heat to high and add the sausage mixture; cook, breaking up the sausage until lightly browned. Stir in the onion, carrot, and celery and sauté until the onion is translucent and the celery and carrot are softened, about 4 minutes. Add the remaining 1 cup of wine, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the skillet, until the wine is nearly evaporated. Stir in the crushed tomatoes with juices and salt. Bring the mixture to a simmer over high; reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened and reduced by about half, about 30 minutes.
3. While the sauce is simmering, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high. Add spaghetti and cook according to package directions for al dente, about 6-8 minutes. Drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup of cooking liquid. Add ¼-½ cup of pasta water to the sauce to thin it. Add a cup of the sauce to the hot pasta and stir to coat the pasta. Stir in the cheese, basil, and parsley. Serve the hot pasta with additional sauce spooned over and garnished with extra Parmesan, chopped basil, and parsley. Serve with crusty bread.

Wine pairing: Chianti, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Syrah, Cotes du Rhone

Pesto Genovese →

This recipe is adapted from Pesto World Championship finalist, 77-year-old Maurizio Valle. Valle’s specialty is “pesto genovese” which uses garden fresh basil, pine nuts, garlic, good quality olive oil, a mixture of Parmesan and Pecorino Romano cheeses, and coarse salt. One of the most famous and versatile Italian sauces worldwide, the word “pesto” comes from the Italian “pestare” meaning to crush. According to Saveur, the recipe for Pesto Genovese first appeared in Giovanni Battista Ratto’s “La Cuciniera Genovese” in 1863. This version of Valle’s recipe adds a bit of lemon zest and uses an easy two-step method that is less labor intensive than using a mortar and pestle to crush the ingredients with similar results. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do. Mangiare bene!

PESTO GENOVESE
Ingredients

• 3 cups of fresh basil leaves (smaller leaves preferred)

• 3 tablespoons of pine nuts

• 1 clove of garlic

• 1/2 teaspoon coarse Kosher or sea salt

• 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

• a mixture of 4 tablespoons of grated Parmigiano Reggiano, plus ½ tablespoon Pecorino Romano

• 1/3 cup mildly flavored extra-virgin olive oil

• Optional: ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

Preparation (you can do it the traditional way using a mortar and pestle and a lot of elbow grease, or use the two-step method below)

1. Place all the ingredients into a small food processor. Blend as finely as you can, pausing to scrape down the sides of the processor until you have a paste.

2. Scrape the paste into a Weck jar or other jar slightly wider than the immersion blender. (I use a 4-cup Pyrex measuring cup.) Process using an immersion blender until you have a smooth emulsified paste.

3. Use three tablespoons of the pesto paste for every four ounces of dry pasta. Cook the pasta to al dente and drain reserving a small amount of the cooking water. Add the cooked pasta to the paste and mix well. The water from the pasta will loosen the paste to create your pesto sauce. If necessary, add a small amount of the reserved pasta cooking water to achieve the sauce consistency you prefer.

4. Garnish with shaved Parmesan or a sprinkle of toasted Panko bread crumbs.

Note: try walnuts in place of pine nuts

Shrimp Pesto

For Freezing: some people will blanch the basil leaves and immediately give them a cold water bath to preserve the bright green color of the leaves. If you take this extra step, dry the leaves well before processing them. Process the pesto as above. As a rule of thumb, use 3 tablespoons of pesto per 4 ounces of dry pasta; 3/4 cup (12 tbs.) of pesto will sauce about a pound of pasta. Measure and freeze the pesto in freezer containers topped off with a thin layer of olive oil to help prevent the basil from oxidizing and turning an unappetizing color. Alternatively, spoon the pesto into ice-cube trays, top with olive oil (optional), and freeze. Once frozen, the pesto-cubes can be stored in zip-lock plastic bags in your freezer for up to 6 months. For reference later, it's helpful to note how many tablespoons of pesto you use for one cube or each container.

Wine pairing:
White wines: Viognier, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Vermentino
Red wines: Rosé or a light-bodied red wine like a Beaujolais or Pinot Noir

Adapted from: https://food52.com/blog/25401-how-to-make-pesto

Creamy Artichoke Pasta with Lemon and Capers →

Cooking and eating are so often connected to memories. Memories of our families, places we’ve been, good friends, good times… When I cook this dish I’m reminded of Lafayette, southern Louisiana, where I was introduced to Cajun/Creole cooking. Served with spicy Cajun shrimp, this dish is a delicious example of the fusion of French, Italian, African, and Spanish traditions that are reflected in Creole and Cajun food. Eating a plate of this pasta and shrimp, I can almost hear my grandmother’s laugh and Zydeco music off in the distance. Bon appetit et laissez le bon temps rouler!

Creamy Artichoke Pasta with Lemon and Capers
Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 1 pound thin linguine, fettuccine, or rotini

• 1 cup ricotta

• ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

• ½ cup freshly grated pecorino or Parmesan

• Zest and juice from ½ lemon

• ¼ cup dry white wine

• 1 clove garlic minced

• 1 tablespoon capers

• 4 canned or frozen (not marinated) artichokes halved

• Kosher salt

• Freshly ground black pepper

• ¼ teaspoon of crushed red pepper flakes

Garnish with freshly snipped or torn basil
Optional: serve with Spicy Cajun Shrimp

Preparation:
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

1. While you prepare the sauce, cook your pasta and reserve 1 cup of pasta water before draining the pasta.

2. While the pasta cooks, combine the ricotta, oil, pecorino, lemon juice, and zest in a medium bowl. Season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of red pepper flakes. Set aside.

3. Over medium heat, add a tablespoon of olive oil to a skillet and briefly sauté the garlic and capers stirring constantly, about a minute, don’t let the garlic burn.

4. Add a pinch of red pepper flakes, the artichokes, and the ¼ cup of wine; bring to a boil stirring until the wine has almost evaporated.

5. Reduce the heat to low and add the ricotta mixture and stir. Add a ¼ cup of reserved pasta water if the sauce is too thick and not creamy smooth. Keep adding a ¼ cup of pasta water at a time, stirring constantly until the sauce is creamy and the consistency you want. Check for salt and pepper to your taste.

6. Add the cooked pasta to the sauce and stir gently to coat.

7. Sprinkle with grated pecorino or parmesan and garnish with basil, and more freshly ground black pepper.

Optional: serve as above garnished with 3-4 Spicy Cajun Shrimp.

Adapted from: https://www.delish.com/cooking/recipe-ideas/a26830130/ricotta-pasta-recipe

Pasta Puttanesca →

This is another dish my grandmother used to make that falls into the genre of “cucina povera” (poor kitchen) or peasant cooking. There are several versions of the legend surrounding the origin of this dish, but as the name indicates, they all have something to do with prostitutes. The version I grew up with says it was popular among “working women” because it was a cheap, quick, and easy meal to prepare between clients. Another version has it that the strong fragrance of the dish was a form of advertising to lure customers. This is one of the most delicious and flavorful pasta dishes and can be made easily and quickly with simple ingredients. Buon appetito a tutti!

Serves 4-6
Ingredients: (for a vegetarian version of this recipe, omit the pancetta/pepperoni and anchovies)

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• 3-4 cloves of garlic lightly smashed and peeled

• 3-4 anchovy fillets (omit for vegetarian version)

• 28-ounce can of whole plum tomatoes (See *Note about plumb tomatoes)

• 2 tablespoons of diced pancetta or pepperoni (optional and not strictly traditional, but adds a note of flavor; omit for vegetarian version)

• ½ cup pitted oil cured black olives or Kalamata olives

• 3-4 tablespoons capers

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• Crushed red pepper flakes to taste (optional: start with ¼ teaspoon)

• 1 pound linguine or other substantial long pasta (I like spaghetti rigati or bucatini)

• Grated Parmesan

• Chopped fresh parsley, oregano, marjoram or basil leaves for garnish (I like basil.)

Preparation:

1. Bring a pot of water to boil and salt it.

2. Drain the tomatoes and crush with a fork or hands.

3. Warm 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat. Add the pancetta or pepperoni and stir for a minute or two until it just begins to brown.

4. Add the garlic, red pepper flakes, and anchovies in skillet over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic is lightly golden and the anchovies begin to break down.

5. Add the crushed tomatoes to skillet, with some salt and pepper. (*Note: you get a lot of salt from the anchovies, capers and olives so be careful with the salt.) Raise heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes break down and mixture becomes thickens, about 10 minutes.

6. Stir in the olives, capers, and continue to simmer.

7. While the sauce simmers, cook the pasta, stirring occasionally, until it is tender al dente (not mushy like canned spaghetti). Drain the pasta and toss immediately with sauce.

8. Taste and adjust seasonings as necessary, garnish with herbs if you like, and serve with grated parmesan and crusty bread.

*Note about plum tomatoes: https://www.tastecooking.com/fake-rolex-canned-tomatoes/

Wine pairing: serve a full bodied red wine like an Italian Chianti or “Super Tuscan” wine made with Sangiovese grapes with this dish. Merlot, Syrah, or Zinfandel based wines would work as well.

Roasted Tomato Sauce with Sausage →

This recipe is a variation of my family's tomato sauce that came from my grandmother’s long-time neighbor Mrs. Andreoli from Abruzzo, Italy. The new version came about when I had a bunch of Roma tomatoes that I knew I had to do something with or they would spoil. I had read that roasting tomatoes intensifies their flavor and cuts some of the acidity of fresh tomatoes; likewise, I read that roasting garlic sweetens it. So I started with a basic marinara sauce (ref. Marcella Hazan, Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, 1992), and added the pancetta, sausage, and roasted tomatoes. The very pleasing result is a flavorful tomato sauce that is not so acidic that you have to add sugar but is full of rich, ripe umami-laden tomato goodness. For a vegetarian version of the sauce leave out the pancetta and sausage. Leftover sauce and sausage will keep in the fridge for a few days or can be frozen for up to 3 months in the freezer. Buon appetito!

Serves up to 6-8

Ingredients:

• 2+ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

• 4 oz. thinly sliced chopped pancetta (1/8-1/4 inch dice)

• 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

• 2 tablespoons tomato paste

• 10 cloves garlic

• 1 medium onion peeled and cut in half

• 1+ tablespoon dried basil

• 1+ tablespoon dried thyme

• 1 bay leaf

• 12 roasted Roma tomatoes

• 1 28 ounce can peeled San Marzano tomatoes with juices, broken up and crushed

• 1 cup dry red wine

• Kosher salt

• 1 pound mixed of sweet and/or hot Italian sausage

Roast the Tomatoes:

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees and line a sheet pan with foil.
1. Cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise and place them cut side up on the sheet pan; drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt, pepper, dried basil, and dried thyme. (Note: if you have fresh sprigs of thyme, strip 3-4 sprigs and sprinkle over the tomatoes.)
2. Peel 10 cloves of garlic and drizzle them with olive oil and sprinkle them on the sheet pan with the tomatoes.
3. Place the sheet pan in the oven and roast for 50-60 minutes or until the tomatoes are well-slumped.

Make the Sauce:

1. Heat oil in a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Add pancetta and sauté until crisp and golden, about 4 minutes; remove from skillet and set aside.

2. In the same skillet, working in batches, brown the sausage on all sides; remove and set aside with the pancetta. (Note: if you are using both sweet and hot sausage, you might want to cut the sausages into different sizes (eg. hot, longer; sweet, shorter pieces) so your guests can choose hot or sweet.

3. Add the tomato paste to the skillet and stir until slightly caramelized.

4. Add the crushed canned tomatoes to the skillet and stir to mix with the caramelized tomato paste.

5. Add the onion, red wine, pepper flakes, black pepper, 2 teaspoons of basil, two teaspoons of thyme, and a bay leaf and stir to mix. (Note if you have fresh basil, you can add 3 sprigs of fresh basil at this time.)

6. Simmer the sauce over low heat until the tomatoes have finished roasting.

7. Once the tomatoes are roasted, working in two batches if necessary, dump the tomatoes and garlic into a food processor and process until chunky.

8. Add the processed roasted tomatoes and garlic to the sauce and stir to mix.

9. Add the browned pancetta and sausage and simmer for an additional 30-40 minutes.

10. Remove the onion and sprigs of basil from the simmering marinara and reserve a cup of sauce to dress the pasta after you drain it.

Cook the Spaghetti and Serve:

• While the sauce finishes simmering, bring a large pot of salted (1 teaspoon) water to a boil and cook the spaghetti rigati (1 lb. box for 4 people), stirring occasionally, until al dente. (about 6-7 minutes)

• Drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup pasta cooking liquid, and return pasta to pot over medium-low heat.

• Spoon reserved 1 cup of sauce over pasta and toss to coat. Add pasta cooking liquid, 1/4 cup at a time, as needed to loosen the sauce and coat pasta. (You might no need to use the full cup of pasta liquid.)

• Divide pasta among plates and top with remaining sauce; serve with sausages and extra sauce on the side.

• Sprinkle with Parmesan and fresh basil (optional)

A full-bodied red wine compliments this recipe. Try a Chianti, a Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Spanish Tempranillo, or Cabernet Sauvignon.

*Note: you can make the sauce a day ahead and refrigerate overnight. Bring the sauce to a simmer while you cook your pasta.

**For a good primer on the differences between styles of Italian tomato sauces, I recommend Lidia’s Italian Table by Lidia Bastianich, William Morrow, and Company, 1998.